There is also a standard 8200 model without IR scanning, which is a bit cheaper if you have no desire to use scratch and dust removal. The OpticFilm 350i offers automatic slide advancement, which seems useful, but manually advancing the film in the 8200 series isn’t that taxing and can often be quicker and more precise to line up. In the midrange home scanning category, there are a couple of other models you might consider. It comes with an inbuilt infrared scanner for removing dirt and scratches from your negatives, whilst not totally essential, it is useful and does cut down on manual labour later in the process. The plustek model I would recommend is the OpticFilm 8200i SE, it is the best options for a god balance of useful features and value. RAW editing might not be for every scan, but with it, you can bring so much more out of your images.Īll the 35mm scanners from plustek are confusingly similar. You can try and edit these things after the fact, but it will be detrimental to final image quality. Even TIF files, which have huge potential for editing, will have already have their white balance, colours, additional sharpening, grain reduction and more locked into the image. Think of it as cooking a whole meal from scratch rather than popping something pre-made in the oven. RAW files are what they say, they are the raw elements of the image, so no additional software tweaks have been applied. This is why on low quality files you see more pixelation, but also banding, where the smooth transition of light and colour is more jarring, in bands of similar colour instead of a full spectrum. The amount of data in a raw file is so much more than a TIF or JPEG, which have been stripped of valuable data to ensure smaller file sizes. Raw photos have a level of control over the colour and lighting in your image that is just not possible with other file types. The same as in digital photography, the only way to get the absolute best out of your editing is to use RAW format. If you want to express your individual vision as a photographer, if you want your whites a bit creamier, or your greens to pop more then this is simply the more accurate and finely tuned way to achieve your specific look. If you don’t want algorithms deciding what your final image will look like. Well, if you want the best from your images. There are a lot of scanners offering to give you the best scans with the minimal amount of effort, and this is great if you just want to archive some old negatives for personal use. Film scanning was once the domain of photo labs and expensive lab scanners, but now you can get very good results at home for only a small financial investment. ![]() However, its also a bit less confusing if you try to run it in "idiot mode" without tweaking anything.Whether you are actively getting into film photography or you just have boxes of old negatives sitting in a cupboard, it is so easy to scan film at home. Its UI feels even clunkier and more poorly organized, and its even worse at batch scanning. ![]() Vuescan is a lot cheaper, but also a lot more reliable as a piece of software. I just wish it had some real competition. Of course when you do figure it out, Silverfast is clearly the better program. The UI feels like a disorganized mess, and its difficult to actually figure out if you're doing things correctly. And it'll often make you restart it if anything about your scanner's state changes too much. The program won't even start unless it successfully detects your scanner, otherwise you're stuck in the launcher window. Multiple installations of the software are very poorly supported, and makes you feel like something's going to break whenever you want to install updates. You can't support multiple scanners without buying multiple licenses and having multiple installations of the software I feel like some UX person needs to thwap the developers over the head. ![]() ![]() Silverfast definitely feels like a more sophisticated and featureful piece of software, but its also clunky as hell.
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